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Discussion Starter #1
done abit of asearch but at some stageover the weekend im going to be doing the rear pads on my old mans 2005 1.6 tdci,is it just a straight forward case of >

1/locking the handbrake off (hold button down few secs then remove key)
2/wind the caliper piston in.
3/fit newpads.
4/pump brake pedal a few timesto wind the caliper pistonback out.
5/then and only then after winding the pisons back outoperate the handbrake as normal and hopefully job done.

doing the front pads too so i take it the front caliper boltsare 7mm same as my wifes focus and many other fords,im also hopingmy caliper rewind toolwhich i use on my wifes focus will also fit the c-max...

Garry
Edited by: Garry
 

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Discussion Starter #3
right i got the fronts done no problem and onlyhad time to whipa rear wheel off and have a look at the rear caliper to see if my rewind adapter wouldfit and it dont
however i did manage to wind the piston back in fully with a pair of long nosed pliers,problem was i couldn'tget the pins on the back of the brake pad toline up with the holes in the caliper piston (the holes you use to turn the piston) no matter how i tweaked (turned)the piston the pad just would'nt seem to line up


question is does the caliper piston when winding back out automaticly locate itself withthe pins on the back of the pad...

Garry
 

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The piston must just come straight out under hydraulic pressure otherwise it would be trying to twist the pads everytime the brakes were applied,
I think it's a caase of being very careful how much the piston is wound back

I didn't know about the pins on the pads so thanks for the warning for the future
 

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Discussion Starter #5
what im going to do Richard is when i do change the pads is to take the other caliper off and before removing the pads have a look and see if the pins on the pad are sitting in the holesin the piston,i will report back once ive done it and if i remember will take pics as i go along which should help others...
 

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Garry that would be very handy as i am about to do my front and rear brakes soon aswell. I've never changed any before so all the help with photo's etc would be great!
 

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Garry said:
what im going to do Richard is when i do change the pads is to take the other caliper off and before removing the pads have a look and see if the pins on the pad are sitting in the holesin the piston,i will report back once ive done it and if i remember will take pics as i go along which should help others...
Hi Garry,

I do hope you will take pics as this is something that is coming up for me, or at least both discs and pads on the front at least!
If you have any problems hosting the photos then please PM me and I will be more than glad to host them for you.

Steve
 

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Big Thanks to all who posted just replaced the rear pads in my CMAX 2.0 Diesel.
Before starting ensure you have all the correct tools a rewind tool will make the job easier but as stated you need a right hand thread with 6mm studs approx 20mm apart.
I used long nose pliers .
Purchase quality brake pads I used Motorcraft as I get them cheap.

1. Loosen Rear road wheels
2. Jack and remove road wheel Axle stands to appropiate location and lower car to contact on axle stand
3 Chock front wheels
4. Loosen caliper pins with Brake allen key tool. The bottom calliper pin has a cover to stop crude getting on the bolt remove with a flat blade crew driver. Retain in a safe place
5. Turn ignition on depress and hold epb and ensure it disengages continue to hold down while turning off igniton and removing key.
6. remove caliper pins and suppport caliper do not allowflexible brake hose to take strain
7. Remove front spring plate retain clip for brake pad retain clipfor reuse.
8. Optional remove retaining clip for brake cable and detache cable from brake cable.
9. Ease caliper away from disc make a note of the pads I used a soft plastic hammer to assist
10. Once you have removed the pads supportted caliper.
11Thoroughly clean the caliper carrier bolted to wheel hub paying particular attention to where the brake pads slide
12 Test fit new pad and ensure they are free to move in the carrier. Why because any sticking will cause brake drag and belive me this will effect mpg .
13. Loosen slight brake fluid cap and ensure to check level whilst winding back caliper with your prefered tool . If using long nose plier you will need to apply pressure and turn at the same time.
14. Clean all contacts areas where the brake pad will touch caliper.
15. Test fit pad and caliper to ensure you have wind it back enough.
16. Clean caliper pins they should be smooth as the caliper has to slide on these. Replace if badly corrode or scored. Again this will effect mpg if calipers stick on pins.
17. Reverse procedure.
18. I applied locktite tocaliper pins threads only
Note double check everything before putting wheel back on.

Ensure all wheels nuts are tight as they hold the disc to the hub.
Ensure all wheels on the ground andjacks removed.
Tighten brake fluid cap
Once complete do not apply EPB but pump the foot brake until pressure is restoref to brake pedal.
Switch on igntion with clutch depresed and then apply EPB hand brake.

It may make some horrendous noise and flash up epb failure do not panic some do some don't.
Hold EPB down switch off ignition.
Soft reset
Leave for 5 minutes.
Switch on and reapply EPB
If still showing EPB go to hardreset.
Hard reset
Remove negative earth and leave for ten minutes note you will need your radio security code!
Then reconnect batterythen reapply epb.
Please note if you battery is low on charge this can cause EPB failure to show.
This doe not mean it has failed simple there isnot enough current from the battery to operateEPB module.
Please note this is inteneded as a guide only and you should get a work shop manual. If you in any doubt about your abilities please seek professional advice.

Finally the result
Pre brake caliper clean MPG figure around town 28mpg
After rear brakes replaced and caliper cleaned 45mpg.
Obtained start from cold 4 mile start stop traffic.
No other changes made.

The last time they were change was by a Ford main dealer andI personally handed them the Motorcraft pads I bought. When I removed the old pad I was supprised to see they had not used them but used a pattern part instead ?
 

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Hello & welcome to the club
,Great post & very clear/easy to follow
.Must say I`m not suprised by dealer not fitting your pads.Did you get them back?MM
 

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Hi cmaxbob, an excellent post on rear brake pad replacement with EPB, a couple of things I'd like to throw into this posts discussion, I looked at Ford etis for rear brake pad replacement and it doesn't mention that there is a possibility that you may have to do a soft or hard reset of the EPB if EPB failure appears!! Secondly according to my haynes manual for rear bake pad replacement they recommend when retracting the caliper piston to clamp the brake hose & attach a tube to the caliper brake nipple open this then retract the piston because they say pushing the piston back causes a reverse flow of brake fluid which has been known to "flip" brake cylinder rubber seals causing total brake failure!! Anyone got thoughts on these two things??
 

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Re your query regarding clamping brake hose and opening bleed valve.
This is another opition and possible better alternative.
I however followed the advice that Ford porvides to theirdealers via theFord TIS.
The reason why they do its this way may one of speed?

The reason why it may be better to clamp the hose is that your are not pushing brake fluid back into the sytem that is likely to have picked up a degree of moisture. You will need to ensure that youhave a brake bleeding kit with a valve. Also I suggest that you shouldensure the brakes havenot picked up any air by using this method after reffiting the pad a quick bleed won't hurt.

I had already tested the brake fluid and found itis just about ready for replacing this is the first change. This is after 7 years of use. I found the Ford Dealesr very keen to change brake fluid every two year. When asked had they tested the brake fluid they said they were just following Ford recommendation and did not have the ability to test the brake fluid.
They are also very keen to change brake pads once again, they do not measure remaining pad material and just relyon visual check.I always check with micrometer pads and disks.
 

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Aplogise didn't answer your other question.
You are quite right that the Ford TIS doesn't mention EPB soft or hard reset.
The reason is this is not neededin normal circumstance if you following the procedure you should not see this problem.

IT'S REALLY IMPORTANT.
You should always pump the brakes to re-engage the pistons and brakespads prior to reapplying the EPB.
However having seen EPBpop up on a colleaguesCMAX I added it for completeness.
Basically when you see EPB failure on the dash quite a few people would panic, but generally it just pointing out to you the handbrake is not working.
Generally the soft reset will fix most of these, hard reset should clear all but actual failures.
It is important to understand that a low batterycurent to the unit can cause this problem.
Other reason can bewiring, blownfuse etc.
One last thing to mention is the rear pad have no wear sensors so you need to keep an eye on them.
Genreally front brakes wear quicker as they do more braking due to weight transfer, but my car has now had two sets of rear brake pads and the fronts have still not yet been changed. The front padsstill have about a third left but will be change at next service.
This may be because last the Ford Dealer did not clean the calipers etcand hence they were sticking.
So keep and eye on the rear pads as steel on steel is not good and better to just replace pads rather than a set of discs as well. I would also budget for a set of caliper pins after your second pad change. They get scored and cause sticking.


I think replacing the pads is well within the capability of a competent DIY mechanic.



Somone asked did I get my Motorcaft pad back from the dealer who fitted the last set.
The answer is no.

I won't be using them again as this the third issue I have had with this dealer.
They were a multiple dealership andlarge organistion.
I now travel a fair distance to Family run dealership who only do Ford.
Their work is very good.
Again just like to thank people who shared information with me on this forum.
 

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Hi cmaxbob, thanks for replying, great explanation to my queries on rear pad replacement,I'm very much hands on in doing my own work on my cars I trust no one to mess with my cars and have a well kitted garage with tools & have my own pit so do most things myself in fact the only time my cars go to a garage is an MOT!!
 

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This thread is very useful and deserving of stickification in my opinion. I replaced the front discs and pads on my car this weekend and will be doing the backs next weekend is the weather holds off. My front discs were well under the 23mm minimum allowed, given the car was at ford at Christmas and they said the pads were low I'm not surprised they don't actually measure anything! Putting my old and new discs edge to edge gave a good 4mm difference! The pads were stuffed too.

As an aside my car is on it's 3rd set of front pads according the service records. First replacements at ford. They didn't copper grease anything. The caliper slide pins were dry as was pad backs, and pad slide edges! Very bad form! I know modern calipers are better made than older ones, but greasing the slides is just common sense.

I'm in full agreement on the geese the back threadlick the threads on slide pins too! Always have. I found the discs needed to be persuaded off with a mallet and some wd40 as they were really tight on the hub centres! Never had that problem before. I find usually the discs just fall off when the carrier is removed. But hey Ho!
 

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Replaced the rear discs and pads on my max today. The write up is spot on. The caliper carrier bolts are very tight and threadlocked as standard so a breaker bar is a must. Other than that it's an easy job. I used a brake rewind tool from a kit I picked up ages ago off flea bay. They both wind back clockwise. My calipers, carriers etc were filthy and took a lot of cleaning.
My new Mintex pads have a new fitting clip system on the pads which I haven't seen before, the pad back has three wire hoops that hook over the piston groove. Took me a while and a call to my local factor to check but they were correct! But they are and fitted fine.
 

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Perhaps you missed the point the last time the garage replaced them they did a shody job and consequently I did it myself this time. The job is simple but I have add as much detail to try and cover off most of the problems that could occur but rarely do . Generally is a straight fit and reapply hand brake. The most important part is making sure you clean up the calipers and caliper pins (preferably replacing them) so that the pads can move freely and not stickthen drag on the disc. Given the price of petrol or diesel why waste it and your pads will last longer as well. I noticed a considerable improvement in MPG.
 

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where did you get your haynes manual for the c-max m8 as i was told by haynes that they were not going to print one.
the undoing of the brake res cap will stop you poping any brake seals
 

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I know this thread is a few months old now but hopefully this info will help anyone reading this in future, as i have found out the hard way!
the pad with the spring on and wide apart pins goes inboard (next to piston) and the pad without a spring and close together pins goes outboard, the pins DO NOT locate in the piston!
Hope this helps!
 
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