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Discussion Starter #1
In Brief:
The dash remains on all the time even when the car is locked and hasn’t been used/opened/activated in days. This can mean at night the LCD screen is backlight despite everything being turned off and the car locked. The CD player also appears to continue to spin after the car is turned off. There is no sound coming through the speakers but you often find when you come back in the CD is on a different track than when you left it.
This is draining my battery which was relatively new and there’s no point replacing it when there’s an obvious electrical fault and draw on the battery.

Full Description:
I understand that this model generally kept the dash illuminated and displayed the mileage and the most recent trip information after turning off or locking until it runs through its diagnostic checks etc. But come back to the car in 2hrs, 2 days, a week and the lcd dash is still on. As a result the battery is just slowly draining and depleting. It’s a relatively new battery (2 years old) and the problem began about 6 months ago. I noticed the dash was still on when returning to the car after 3-4 hours, however it started as normal. Slowly this has deteriorated and I’ve check with a friend who has the same age of CMax and their dash goes off within about 15mins. On a fully charged battery the car will start as normal provided I drive it every day. However if it’s parked up for longer there’s not enough power in the battery to start the car. When I turn on the diagnostic test set up on the dash and take the battery reading I usually need at least a reading of 11.7-12.3V for the engine to start. There is clearly a drain on the system (parasitic loss) and I wonder if anyone else has experienced this issue relating to the dash and with this ages/model of CMax.

Also, when I turn the car back on I’ve often thought that the CD player has still been running because it’s on a different track (most obvious when listening to an audiobook) and you park and lock the car to come back half an hour later and not being able to understand where you are in the story. I’m sure this is connected to the LCD display on the dash remaining on 24hrs.

It’s been most noticeable over Covid-19 lockdown because the car has sat for weeks between driving. And now I generally need to jump starts it in order to take it a run.

I can remove the terminal connections to the battery when not in use but it’s a very temporary solution and anyone knowing this model will know how tight and what a pain and how time consuming it is to get into the battery and do this. Also it means everything is disabled and my clock and radio need setup each time.

I can hook up a multimeter and search for the current draw when the car is not running but need to cover any door sensor (as doors will be open/opened) to access certain fuse boxes and will need to disconnect the neutral on the battery to look for this with the fuses. Once I find the circuit(s) with the issue- then what? I presume it won’t be a fuse fail to on, but will probably be a component. And I imagine I’ll need to source a wiring diagram to search for the options of what this could be? Any knowledge someone can share on the matter would be greatly appreciated.

The following can be ruled out:
1.) It’s a standard push button key (not a proximity type) and the car hasn’t had any non-factory modifications to the electrical system.
2.) The battery was replace 18 months ago and while I have another battery I can use I don’t want to stick it in and let the car slowly deplete it.
3.) The alternator charges up the battery well and checked with the indash display and with a multimeter.
4.) No lights remain on in the car when it is locked. The glove compartment, boot, rest of interior and exterior have been checked for lights remaining on after locking/when car is not in use and there is nothing only the LCD display on the dash.
 

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My first thoughts would be dry solder joints in the dash pod, your car is the right age for it and all sorts of weird stuff can happen if the dash connections are messing about. Its a known fault with older max's. Other than investigating that possibility, please make sure all the plugs to the fuseboard in the passenger footwell are connected securely as they can and do come loose with some help from active boots/shoes.
 
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