Ford C-Max Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, just changed the epb cables on a 2004 focus c max as they were sticking. l took the module and emergency release cable off the car for a good look as l didn't know if it could be done or what l was up against.
Now l've done it, the following guide is how l would do it again in hindsight.

Bear in mind also that this thread will be in parts because l did a long thread last night and got timed out whatever, so wouldn't post.

First, the only place l found to get the cables from was Bluechipautotronics
£64 +vat delivered 01873 740999

Release parking brake and hold epb button down while you switch engine off and take key out, keep holding down for a few seconds. Disconnect the battery just incase.

Slacken rear wheel nuts and jack the back up all you can, remove wheels.

Inside car, open the centre console lid and remove the mat to locate the epb emergency release. Take the 'T' bar off the cable and tie a 2ft piece of thin wire or strong fishing line to the cable (it has a little knob on the end).
This is to pull the wire back up if it were to go down the guide tube.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
epb continued

Now underneath the back, at the epb unit, you'll see where the cables enter the unit, cut through both the brake cables with a cutting disc about 3-4 inches away from unit, be aware of the thin emergency cable, don't cut that one.
lt should be easy now to disconnect the other end of the cables at the calipers.
Once disconnected, unclip the cables and remove them. Note the way the left hand one goes especially as it's close to the exhaust. The right hand one runs along the back of the fuel tank.
Next wire brush the 13mm nut at the very rear of epb unit housing, spray and undo it, you may need to hold the other end inside the spare wheel well.
Now bend the unit and housing downwards at the back to reveal the epb unit. The small bolts holding it at the front will be rusty and hard to get to, so just pull it down.
Clean bits and dirt from epb unit, don't want dirt or rust dropping in it. Once cleaned, undo the 8 torx screws securing the top of the epb and use a screwdriver to prise it upwards, slowly prise it as it's sealed.
Now you can see inside the unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
epb cables cont'd

The unit is held in the casing by 2 rubber lugs, it may, or may not be necessary to disturb it, but it doesn't matter as it's easily put back.

Where the old cables enter the unit, undo the big black plastic nuts that hold them, slide them off the cables and keep them safe as they are needed for the new ones.
The old outer bits of cables can be removed now and you will see the slider mechanism in the unit.
The left inner cable is held in place by a white plastic clip. Slide the mechanism to the right a bit and use 2 darts or sharp screwdrivers to lift the 2 tabs and move it back up the cable and release the end of the inner cable.

The right hand one has a worm screw thread on it, slide the mechanism to the right till a square bit of the inner cable is out of the unit and turn the cable clockwise to screw it out. Count the number of complete turns it takes to give the turns needed for the new cable
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
epb cables cont'd

Now to fit new cables to the unit. Check there is grease in the slider mechanism and not dry, so it can move easy.
Do the left cable first, insert inner end into it's niche and slide the metal clip over the end to secure it. Mine was a metal clip on new cable. Push the outer cable into it's socket and slide the old plastic nut down the outer cable and screw it up to the unit.
Slide the mechanism to the right, leaving about 2"-2.5" inner sticking out at caliper end.
Now fit the right cable, put a smear of grease on the worm thread and screw it into the worm drive housing anti-clockwise the number of turns you counted. Slide the mechanism left so the square bit enters the slider mechanism, push the outer cable into it's socket and then slide the other black plastic nut down the outer cable, screw it to the unit. Just check now at the caliper ends of cables that you've enough of both inner cables to fit to the calipers.
Clean the old sealer off the top for the unit, apply sealer round edges (l used silicone bathroom stuff ) and refit top with the 8 torx screws.
Now check unit is secured in the housing with the lugs, push the lot up to the body and secure with the 13mm nut, back in position.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
epb cables cont'd

Now before feeding the cables through to the calipers, apply the heat resistant tape to the left hand cable ( this comes with the new cables ) look at the old cable but lt's roughly in the middle.

Feed the cables through the way they were and hook up to calipers, fix into clips attached to body. l made a bracket to hold the left hand one away from the exhaust but that's bytheway.

Inside the car check the emergency cable, if you can't see it, pull it back up with whatever you tied to it. lf it won't come enough, check in front of o/s rear wind deflector in front of rear o/s wheel. There's a clip could come out where the emergency cable clips into the guide tube, just push it back in. Fit the 'T' bar back on cable.
Re-connect battery and start engine.
Press the foot brake first, specially if you did any alteration at calipers.
Work the epb on/off 3 times. lf all ok, wheels back on.
l shall try again to do pictures of the cable ends.
Hope this may help someone, if l've missed anything, sorry about that.

ln my opinion, an experienced ford mechanic using ramps and indoors could do this in 1-1.5 hrs easy.
Cheers Bob.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
381 Posts
Well done on the job and getting your "how to" posted. This one maybe ought to be stickied Admin.

I would suggest to anyone else doing this to take loads of pictures along the way as an aid to getting stuff back in the same place if nothing else.

Any more pics Grandadboby? You can never have too many pics ;)

Just to add to this so the info is all together, here is a link to the Welsh garage offering a complete replacement unit and cables for £348 or less if it doesnt need everything. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-C-Max-Electric-Electronic-Handbrake-Repair-/252518980216?
And the Polish guy offering cables is here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ford-cmax-smax-ELECTRONIC-HANDBRAKE-CABLES-2-PCS-SET-NEW-/272351489106?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Hi Oldman,
l don't think more pictures would help, this is not for a complete novice. Remember that nowadays most young blokes can't fix a puncture on a bike.
l saw the ad from Poland on Ebay, described as ' new/other ' , didn't like the sound of that. For the extra few quid, the bloke at Bluetronics, does them, and knows exactly what you're on about. They have the cables made specially for them. l emailed every brake place on the net, nobody does them. lt's also worth mentioning that this unit is fitted to other cars, but the cables are not the same from what l could see.
Anyone having a go at this, if they get stuck or don't understand anything can message me and l will try to help.
Cheers Bob.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Great write-up, many thanks grandadbobby. Here is a wee update :-
Blue Chip Autotronics say they no longer use the Polish cables and their price has gone up.
I am not fitting just now but ordered last week. The price is now £100 + £10.42 carriage plus a donation to the chancellor at 20% giving a grand total of £132.50.
They look the part and I will post an update when they are fitted.
Garth
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I have just bought an 07 2.0 ghia diesel, someone has changed the EPB for one from a breakers. can it be coded using the obd and forscan or is it high level auto electrician?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
epb

Hi Colin,
short answer is l don't know, but you've got nothing to lose so have a go.
l take it that it's not working and not recognised, why this would be coded to the car, l have no idea, but that's what we're up against nowadays.
lf it doesn't work, let me know where you are, if you're anywhere near me, l've got Delphi autocom which l'm sure would do it.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
Bob.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Thank you so much for this description.

My C-Max 2006 had the right cable broken, rusted and stuck. It also make a squeeking sound after a few seconds of engaging the brake, which made me suspect I had a broken gear box in the EPB. I was able to also fix this, please read below.

I ordered the cables from the Polish seller on Ebay.

It took me about 3h to replace the cables, break pads and to fix the squeeking sound. Quite a bit of the time was spent getting rusted parts off, so with less rust I would probably have made it in about 2h. I am not a professional mechanics.

First, a short description of the function (the way I understand it).
When parking brake is engage, the motor will turn, stretching the cable. The torque sensor will used to measure the tourque and the motor will stop at 1000N (can be read with ForScan). There is a mechanical torque limiter to protect the motor and the gear box (this is what makes the squeeking noise, which I had, please check below for description how to fix). If the torque does not reach 1000N within specified time there will be an error code on the dashboard. Seems like "Limited EBP" is shown if tourque is above some defined value, but below "Total EBP failure" is shown if torque is very low or too long time. I expect there is also an error message if torque profile is not correct (indicating stuck cable or other issue).

This means there is no using of counting the turns of the right wormthreaded cable, the distance doesn't matter as it will self adjust. Just screw it in 3-5 turns, to keep it as far out as possible, making it easier to put the cable onto the caliper.

Before removing and reattaching the left cable, unmount the flex cable to the tourque sensor (the white plastic thing with a thin flex cable on it). These flex cables breake very easily, so just disconnect it and but it to the side.

It will be really hard to attach the second cable to the caliper as you have to bend the brake lever. To make it easier, you can take apart the caliper in order for the disc to not limit the movement of the pads. Please note however that it might be hard or even impossible to assemble without using the special tool to push back the piston. So make sure you have the tool before taking the caliper apart.

This means it's a good time to replace the pads while you have it all apart.

If you have the squeeking sound (sounds like sprokets are worn, really loud noise when cables are streching), keep reading.

Even if your cables are not bad, I would suggest replacing them anyway, this is quite a big job and your cables might need replacement next week or next year anyway, so just do it now when it's easy.

With the right cable removed from the EPB unit, unscrew the three screews that holds the gearbox and the motor. Remove the cables from the motor. Unscrew the four screws to open the gear box.
The sprocket that connects to the motor has a spring on it, this is the tourque limiter. Its a sprocket divided in two with a spring locked by a lock washer. On mine the plastic was a bit worn so the lock washer had come off. Strangely the plastic housing has about 1-2mm distance, which means it does not support the washer. It would have made sense to use the housing as extra support. So I put the lock washer back, but since the plastic was worn, I expected it to fall off again, I added a 8mm washer on top making it push against the housing, supporting the washer. In my opinion this is how it should have been designed in the first place. Sorry I didn't take any pictures, hope you understand.
Then just screw it all back together again.

Hope this helps someone.

/Richard
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top