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Discussion Starter #1
hi all can any one recommend a engine oil additive as we are not using our 2.0l tdci that much lately and when i started it at the weekend it sounded very noisy until the oil had got round the engine then it went back to it's normal rattle.just after something to putin to the engine oil to help the motor until more oil has got round.
 

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I`ve got Slick 50 in mine,works in both petrol & diesel.I have put it in every car I`ve had & it`s always helped make them quieter.Also used it in our racing cars & as the engines were stripped down after every race we could see there was less wear with it than without.
MM
 

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Sorry to ruin the delusion regarding additives, during my career in both aviation & the motor industry testing in use & in laboratorieslubricants (oils & additives) , with the exception of - in Lycoming piston aero engines the manufacturers oil additive to ensure rapid piston & ring bedding no other additive has been proved to offer any improvement over any leading manufacturers brand oil, you have to remember that the oil companies spent millions, & millions of Pounds/dollars etc producing lubricants to meet a manufacturers specifications to the highest quality (just think of the law suites if an oil failed to meet specs !!!)the addition of additives can often cause an oil to deteriorate in quality, my suggestion is don't use it, just ensure you have regular oil & filter changes & use only what the manufacturer recommends, quality counts !.

With regard to MetalMickey08's comments, (this is not critism just an observation)can I suggest, in racing that you start with a clean engine before a race , fill it with clean oil & run the unit for the race (say 25 - 30 miles max ?) when you strip the engine - what class do you run that requires an engine strip after every race ?, the engine wear will be non existant, I ran BMW 2002 TIi' s in Germany some years ago & raced in boththe Spa & Nurburgring 24 hours plus local championship events, even after that time & distance with decent oil & filters (they were changed at the 12 hour point in the endurance races) no excessive wear occured as properly run & maintained engines will do that with correct lubrication. I now run a Quattro Sport& a Metro 6R4 in historic rallying, my engines I suggest get a greater hammering duringa season than your race engines & are only stripped & rebuilt as a precaution once a year & the engines will not need relacement bearings, rings etc until the engines have covered some 4 - 5000 miles in competition & road use, all because we carry out regular oil & filter changes using standard high quality oil (Magnatec & Elf 5W-30, standard off the shelf) absolutely no additives !!!! so please don't waste your money on additives - it just isn't worth it, I look forward to further comments re this, regards, Paul Herbert, Bicester, Oxon.
 

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Apologies, spelling errors crept in during my last post, sorry !!ie: Criticism, replacement plus a couple of others , blame it on old age.

Paul H.
 

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The only thing the fire brigades had to aid this sort of problem was that they had a small heater built into the sump plug that was fed from the same mains electrical that kept the batteries charged whilst on station and waiting for a "shout"

Some even had the equivalent of a small kettle built into the engine cooling system to keep this off cold as well. Try a search for Kenlowe if you want

I used to help build them several years ago
 

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Kenlowe still make a heater unit that is put in the water system (bottom hose connected via plug to mains?) to do a similiar thing, Demon Tweeks stocked them last year ! Paul H.
 

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Is that a C-Max problem (2.0 litre TDCI) mine takes twice the distance/time that my petrol car does to warm up thought with all the compression & combustion effort etc of a diesel that it would warm quicker ? come on experts tell us please, PH.
 

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Two main factors
Less of the energy from the fuel goes into generating heat and
There is more metal to the engine due to the higher compression pressure inherrant in a diesel engine requiring more strength
 

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So would have thought greater heat transfer from combustion to coolant ?, will have to read up on thermal energy again to fathom it out, seem to remember there is some fomula out there, something to do with calorific values, oh my brain hurts !!!!!PH.
 

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with greater thermal efficiency less fuel energy goes as heat to the "block" so it takes longer to heat and also because there is more mass it also takes longer to heat
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks for all the info into my engine oil question, i think its gone over my head abit now.fluid dynamicsi will ask halfords if they have any or anything similar.
 

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Richard thanks, I also got involved with design of cooling air ducting & fluid cooling (fuel & hydraulics)in piston & gas turbine cowling & structure design, some time ago now , it is just something long lost in my CV & record of service, re aerofoil shape the basic aerofoil is called RAF 39 every thing is developed from that basic design, see I remember that for all the good it does me ????. Paul H.
 
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