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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

First problem I've had to ask about but it's really got me stuck and was wondering if others had experienced or were familiar with the symptoms.

Car is a 54 1.6TDCi with 62k on the clock.

First started a rattling from the engine bay, drivers side. Tied to RPM and load, wasn't particularly noticeable but then when the weather got hot and my windows were down I noticed it had become alot louder.

Next day the alternator went, battery light came on, PAS and ABS were flickering on and off and car wouldn't start after it had been standing.

Fitted new alternator and about 2 days later I now can't lock the car, the handbrake light won't go out, A/C is non existent and only puts outwarm air and the dash indicators won't light or "tick.....tick......tick" put the lights outside the car will still light up.

Rattling from the engine is louder than ever, but doesn't affect the performance (my MPG has actually improved as I don't want to rev it!) but when you put the windows up/down turn on anything electrical the rattling stops. Or if it's not rattling, it starts to rattle - rattling comes and goes, but it more often rattling than not.

Had a good look around the engine bay from both about and below, probed with a mechanics stethoscope and can't isolate the rattle or see anything wrong/out of place.

I followed the TIS guide when the alternator was replaced and all bolts have been tightened.

Any suggestions?.....
 

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Hmm if i was a betting man and this was my 2.0 tdci i`d say it was the tensioner pulley bearing, but i`m not and yours isnt
If the 1.6 has a tensioner pulley first choice would be the pulley bearing. After that i`m afraid its expensive as it may be the A/C clutch. Hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Lazyb,

Why do you say that? It would explain the knocking but I don't see how it would effect the electrics.....

I've just put my name down for a 08 plated C-Max (arrives Friday) so I can now delve deeper into this problem as I don't need the car until then. I was thinking tomorrow I would take off the accessory belt and run the engine (only power alternator and A/C pump so should be ok if the battery doesn't go too quickly). That way I can determine whether it's engine knocking or something running off the engine.

I'll at the tensioner and see where I go from there although I'll be honest and say I'm not too hopeful as it sounded fine when 'probed'.

Cheers,
 

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Hi ,
was thinking if the bearing on the tensioner had gone the belt would stillgo round until some demand was placed on the system ie AC or electrics the tensioner bearing may then allow the pulley to deflect and the belt to slip.As i said other than that i`m scratching my head.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I've taken off the accessory belt and run the engine and the knocking has disappeared :D

So it's either A/C, or like you said LazyB, the tensioner. The alternator is brand new and replaced so that rules that one out. I'll take the undertrays off and spin them by hand first to check the bearings and then go from there.

I've also had a look at all the fuses and fuse 68 (value 7.5A) has blown so I'll look that up on TIS and find out what it is. Tomorrow I'll head off to Halfordsto purchase a new one and see where we are at then.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hmmmm.....it looks like fuse 68 is the instrument cluster. On one hand it would explain no locking and no indicator lights on dash as they're both tied into that module but on the other there are alot of functions that the cluster does and they're all working.....and the big question is what on earth would cause it to blow......

Looks like I'll need a new instrument cluster from Ford and I'll have to get it programmed.....Ouch can see this hurting.....

Can someone with the TIS discs just confirm that Fuse 68 - rated at 7.5A is for the instrument cluster and nothing else please?

In some imagines it just ends in the central junction box so I'm not 100% sure.....

Cheers,
 

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from 413-01-00-001
There appear to be THREE fuses for the instrument cluster F46 16A - f68 7½A & F67 16A

from 700-03-00-052
F 68 appears to be Ign sw in Aux position to feed the Sat Nav / radio
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Car is booked into Bristol Street on Wednesday for the electrical fault. I'm thinking it just needs a new cluster but they'll have it program it to the car and transfer the mileage.

Ordered a new tensioner at a cost of £20 to see if that stops the knocking. Hopefully it will otherwise I'm looking at a new A/C compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Tensioner changed and she still rattles. Only thing that hasn't been changed is the A/C comp.

Can someone with a 1.6TDCi please open the bonnet look to the front left (as you're looking straight on at the car) of the engine and you should see a belt with two motor shaped things on. Can you look at the face of them nearest the belt and tell me if you see any sort of metal filings. I've noticed there's a few on mine which I can't imagine is healthy but just want to make sure....

Cheers,
 

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I've got the alterntor sitting above the power steering pump with the tensioner just above and slightly behind the alternator

The back of the belt is slightly shiny from having the tensioner running on it but nothing other than belt visible on the piece between alternator and tensioner
 

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hmm wish it had been the tensioner . Alternator may be worth checking my new one went bang after 2 months thankfully got a refund. (eventually)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
But the noise hasn't changed when I replaced it....

Don't know if this helps:
I currently have on 18s that need the rack limiter otherwise they rub.I havn't got that on and when I put it on full lock (stationary) the noise gets significantly louder whilst the revs barely move.

Power steering has been checked and is all ok. Fluid is fine as well.

Any thoughts?

At the moment I think I'll just be adding it to Fords to do list when it goes in. I've had a couple of friends and neighbours over and they can't work it out either.
 

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ahh sorry didnt read that bit. Hmm not sure scratching my head on this especially when going from discription only.
 

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Did they happen to say anymore as to what and
was the blown fuse part of it or just not repaired from a previous something
 
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