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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hiya,

My car had a P1260 Theft Detected fault after I tried jump starting after the battery had got drained recently.

We towed it to Ford who diagnosed it and said that the ECU probably needs replacing, but that it would cost £1,500 so not worth doing.

I've looked on ebay and found ECU kits for around £100, so I'm going to go that route but the problem is that the three ECU sets currently on sale all seem to be comprised of different types of components:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282152829526 - ecu, bsi, cluster, barrel and key.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191969475355 - ecu, bsi, cluster, ignition lock, barrel, keys.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182201665044 - ecu, bsi, cluster, ignition lock, barrel, driver door lock, key.

As you can see, some come with more components than others. But will they all work - without any programming?

I am going to find my ECU and BSI part numbers - which will hopefully match one of the eBay listings, but can anyone confirm the minimum set of parts I will need - ideally *without* having to drag the car back to Ford for reprogramming!

Many thanks,
James

PS - Does it matter if the ECU set I buy is from an automatic vehicle or is matching all the part numbers all I need to worry about?

PPS - The third ad says "Please note that the BSI may need coding to your vehicle as the injector codes will need to be entered." but one of the other sellers told me that no programming should be required. Does anyone know what the case is likely to be re programming?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I now have the part numbers for my old ECU and BSI. There doesn't appear to be anyone selling an ECU set that has my part number so I am wondering if it would be OK to use an ECU set that has different part numbers (ie, because it's a complete set)?

Or should I just buy an ECU and BSI with matching part numbers (from separate suppliers) and then pay someone to come and program it?
 

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Hi there, l know that the injectors do have to be coded, as for anything else, l'm not sure.
Before you go down this drastic route ( we very often assume the worst ) l would check out exactly what has happened, and exhaust any possible solutions. l wouldn't go near Ford, nor assume their findings are correct, 'probably' is niether here nor there.
Why did the battery go flat? and when you jumped it, did it start or what?
Bob.
 

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p1260

Hi mate,
l just looked up this code, l assume your immobiliser won't recognise your key.
lf you haven't already done this, do it first. Check every connection at fuses and relays, fuse box in engine bay and under passenger tray, you're looking at ecu so check all the little connectors there, and also important is the block connector behind passenger corner covering, the signal goes through there.
From my experience, it's more likely to be a connection somewhere rather than the ecu.
Good luck.
Bob.
 

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would have thought the new ecu numbers have to match the ecu fitted from the factory in order to work all the modules
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies.
I'm not sure why the battery went flat. The alternator is working fine and it's a new battery, so I looked into this and there is 0.34A of current being drawn when the key is oit of the ignition and evetything turned off. Would this be more indicative of a short or a faulty component/module rather than a bad connection?

Most of thessential 0.34A is going via F3 (engine fusebox) and some via F4. I've haven't narrowed it down any more than that yet, but I've looked in my Haynes manual and both those fuses are associated with the ECU - but I will do more checks to see if I can narrow down further where all that current is going.

It didn't start when I tried jump starting. The car is totally immobilised... :-/

This is what the Ford said on my paperwork:
We have checked your vehicle for Theft Detected displaying on dashboard, following IDS diagnostic code: Data mismatch between PCM and IC, attempted to carry out module initialisation, failed due to PCM reporting no outcode available. IDS recommends to replace the PCM, however we recommend full lab engine bay and body wiring looms checks to confirm faulty PCM before replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
And re the part numbers, yes that is what one of the eBay sellers told me - that from their experience they had to get exactly matching part numbers.
 

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Bad news from me I think.
I'm having to have my ECU replaced by my local garage as it was full of water and mud following the wet weather.
The garage is having to take the car to a ford dealer because the new unit and the ignition key need to be matched for code and they're not allowed to get it from Ford themselves!
An an outrageous restrictive practice by Ford I think on the pretext of security from theft.
 
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