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This is a brief write-up in case it's useful to someone. There are videos on youtube etc that describe it, but the best one I found was for a Mondeo - same engine, but different engine bay, therefore different things need to be taken into consideration.

Why I did it - 1) I heard a faint occasional rattling under light acceleration. This is almost certainly the swirl flaps having a bit too much play in them after several years of use..
2) higher than expected oil usage. The PCV valve and/or oil separator hose are possible causes (as are knackered oil control rings, but that's a whole different procedure), and these are only accessible if you remove the manifold. So, off it comes.

You need a decent socket set to tackle this job - various extension bars will be needed to access the manifold bolts. You'll also need an inspection mirror, and very likely a strong magnet on a pole.

Briefly, the Order Of Battle was:
Raise the front of the car
disconnect battery
remove air intake flexi hose
unplug throttle body connector, and remove throttle body
remove oil dipstick
unplug TMAP sensor
unplug electrical connector attached to the left hand side of the manifold as you look at it from the front of the car, near the thermostat.
unplug injectors (at least that's what I think they are), just to give the loom more wiggle room
Cut the ties tying the loom to the manifold - I was able to undo some of them, but l had to snip most of them. I replaced with cable ties on refitting.
unplug the hoses and vacuum lines connected to the manifold. The youtube video I linked to shows you how to release the rigid hose that goes into the manifold vertically at the right hand side.
Undo all the manifold bolts - easily the most difficult one is the one between inlet #2 and #3. You can't see it, you have to do it by feel. it's only accessible via a small access hole.
Wiggle the manifold free - it's *really* tight.
Undo hose on PCV valve.
Extract manifold from engine bay.
That's it.

My tips:
1) It's mildly tricky to undo a particular one of the manifold bolts - but relocating it when you're refitting is waaaay harder. I'd suggest keeping it located in its hole if you can. Maybe slip a nut onto the end of it when the manifold is free from the block.

2) I used a jubilee clip to attach the oil separator hose to the PCV valve on refitting. There's not much slack on the hose, and the manifold has to be roughly in the right place before those hose will reach the PCV valve. It's catch-22: you need the manifold approximately in place to allow the hose to reach the valve, but with the manifold in place, access is extremely tight. If you have specialist pliers for squeezing those clips together, you might have more luck than I did.

3) I didn't need to remove the radiator fan, but it was a really close call.

4) When the manifold is loose but still in situ, pivot the left hand side upwards. There's a horizontal metal pipe that protrudes into the manifold at the right hand side, which makes things awkward. It means you can't simply lift the manifold straight upwards.

5) When refitting, connect the two vacuum hoses before bolting the manifold. One of them is quite tricky to reconnect when it's in place.

6) I replaced the PCV valve without bothering to inspect the old one. I inspected the oil separator hose, and it looked OK. On hindsight, I would have replaced it too due to the difficulty of the procedure.
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