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Discussion Starter #1
Can i do this without dropping the engine......

I know ill have to drop the gearbox but will i need to drop the engine aswell.

Planning on doing this on the drive cos im a moron who dont know better
 

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As far as I am aware you should not have to drop the engine.
Search Kevin Albert Williams on YouTube. He is a mobile clutch man and has loads of videos of clutch replacements on the drive. There may not be a C-Max but very likely a Focus of the same age as yours. Saved me loads of time when I did my son's Kia Picanto clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Peace of cake, 4 hours and done.

£1100 at ford i think not, very pleased with myself,up on ramps, gearbox out, 6 bolts out, swap old for new, new clutch and such. Really was a cake walk to do

Im nooooo mechanic but im not a bank either, total bill £550 new DMF and Clutch.

Pleasantly surprised at 110K to see the original ford DMF installed on it still, but very supprised by the complete destruction of the failed flywheel
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So now that it is done an happy, so word of warning for others.

If you buy a SACHS flywheel, buy a SACHS 4 peace clutch kit for it.

If you buy a LUK flywheel, buy a LUK 4 peace clutch kit for it.

The LUK Pressure plate when bolted to a sachs flywheel, pulls the clutch teeth in to far,the concentric slave cylinder will then blow apart the first time apply pressure as it overextends.

And the best thing you can do before starting this job, is calling ford, give them the VIN and get the part numbers from them.

EurocarParts / Car Parts forLess
Just avoid them for this job, i went thru 4 clutch kits, from them (every one they offer) none will fit the flywheel they supply.

In hind sight, i would have ordered from GSR,it turns out (i learned after the fact)They sell a complete kit from ford, and its well priced only a few quid more £650 with GSR vs £625 and 4 days of Eurocar parts, GSR's kit is all SACHS (which is i believe factory fitted)


GSR Supply a complete DMF Kit. Flywheel, Flywheel Bolts, Clutch Plate, Pressure Plate, Slave Cylinder, and it even had a Liter of clutch fluid in it,so that would be what i would recomend.


In terms of doing this on a drive,

1) The gearbox is considerably heavier than you can imagine it caught me out not once but twice.
2) A wing mounted engine lift device (rented for £15), used to drop the gearbox as well.
3) When refitting the passenger side drive shaft (on RHD) Its a bastard to drive all the way home, i had to use a 1x1 block and rubber mallet to seat it
4) Why your in there check the back of the turbo for oil leaks.
5) When refitting the gearbox, getting someone in the wheel well with there feet to push the box in, it needs a fair old shove to get it home
6) Bleed the clutch with the gearbox selector cables off, its So much easier.
7) When filling with gearbox oil, remove the plug from the top of the gearbox under the selector forks, and refill from there, remove gearbox drain plug from gearbox, and fill from top until fluid drains out of the drain plug, the gearbox is now full


All of the above was written and posted by a moron who did it on the drive alone with with next to no help, i am not a mechanic, but this might help others, and its for that reason i have posted it
 

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Well done that man, I wouldnt attempt it on my back. I warned here some years ago that you cant pick n mix Luk & Sachs parts but some suggested I was wrong. Even the cover to flywheel bolt holes are slightly offset to try and stop you mixing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I wasnt entirely on my back, and i had a hoist. I wouldnt recommend anyone do it on there back, the gearbox is far heavier than you think, its gotta be getting on for the tick end of 50 kilo, at least twice as heavy as a petrol focus gearbox, really did take me by surprise.

As for the mixing and matching of clutch kits, i had heard this 2, and come to the conclusion since they had for OEM Numbers, they would be the same, but they aint, and worse they all fit one another with nothing more than a little tap tap tappy.

As it turns out when the right kits are used, there is zero need for the tap, once i had the right parts, it literally slid together it really was effortless

But for the love of god, where possible save the headache and buy a complete kit, Flywheel and Clutch as one, its the only way you can do this job easily.


One other thing, ford told me 6 hours on there books to do this job, ill just say right now, 6 hours if youve done it before a dozen times, and if you drop the engine drive train out, it took me 14 hours on my own (in total, trying 4 clutch kits, and 2 flywheels), in the sun, and boy did i get sunburn in the process, but well worth it.

I just hope this will help some other poor sucker in future, it really is a job you can do on the drive, if your willing to try it, there was nothing overly complicated about any of it.

Battery out, airbox out, tray out, undertray off, selector cables of, clutch hydros off, drive shafts out, 6 bolts, split the box, replace parts, do it all in reverse
 
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