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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
I urgently need help with a central locking fault, school run again tomorrow and the passenger doors won't open from the inside or outside and the drivers door ill only open manually with the key.

The key fob seems to be working/communicating with the car ok, the indicators flash when I press open or lock, but although the doors lock they don't unlock, nothing happens when I press the open button apart from the indicators flashing and the indicator icons flashing on the dashboard.

The boot opens with the remote but all the other doors including the petrol flap remain locked.

I have to get into the car by manually turning the key in the driver's door. I've tried turning it multiple times, double locking/double unlocking and holding it in the open position for a long time but it will still only open the drivers door.

Inside the car each door handle has a small mini-handle or lever above it. Right now all these little handles are stuck in the 'pushed in' position and will not pull back out. Normally they all would open when the corresponding main handles in each door are pulled but not now.

If the drivers door is opened manually it will continue to open with both internal and external handles but the small lever remains in the locked position. However as soon as the remote lock is pressed on the key fob the door 'resets' and the only way to get out of the car is to open the driver's window and reach out with the keys to unlock the door.

I have looked under the glove box where I understand the central locking control box is located but nothing obvious there. My youngest son does have a habit of swinging his legs up/kicking in that area so i wondered if he might have dislodged a wire but nothing seems out of place.

So bit stumped.
Am I looking in the right place?
Is there any way to take the control box out and check it without causing further electrical issues?

If anyone has any thoughts as to what this might be/how to diagnose if mechanical or electrical/door or control box etc. I would be very grateful.

Regards, GF2k
 

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If all doors are not working I would strongly suspect a fuse has blown. Check owners manual for location of fuse box and a list of fuses. If you state year and model someone will be able to tell you where it is and which fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Fuse for Central Locking on 2008 2.0 Petrol Zetec Auto CMAX

Thanks Paule,
Is this enough info?
2008 2.0 Petrol Zetec Auto

If it is can anyone help me with location of the Fuse Box for this model (under the glove compartment?) and a list of what each Fuse is for?

I'm going to have a look now, if I find it do i need to disconnect the battery before pulling/checking fuses or just keep ignition off?

thanks,
GF2k
 

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Hi, there should be no need to randomly disconnect fuses or the battery. If you use a torch you can see if the fuse wire is broken just below the plastic on top of the fuse. I cannot tell you which fuse it will be. There is probably also a fusebox under the bonnet near the battery but this is unlikely to have the fuse you are after (although do not totally rule it out). Does the manual not tell you which fuse is which. Either that or Google.

Google says F63 is your fuse behind the glovebox. Its a 20amp one and only does the central locking. Good luck. If it is gone do not be tempted to put a bigger one in. If it goes again then obviously you had a problem.
 

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Any update, was it the fuse?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry for the delay, had a look over the weekend and Fuse 133 & 134 for central locking are fine.
The fuse box itself was a little dirty but no water visible .
I have to admit I couldn't really get a good look at all the other fuses because I was lying across the gearshift from the driver's side (passenger door won't open), so I managed to visually check about half the fuses by shining my mobile's flashlight through the plastic from behind.
The only two i physically pulled were the two i mentioned 133&134, which are listed as the central locking specific fuses.

Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Central Locking Door lock lever problem

Thanks for your help Paule,
So, as long as those fuses were the right ones (F133 25A, F134 20A) then as they were ok they aren't the problem.
(unless there are other fuses that are part of the central locking circuit)

So to recap:

DRIVER'S DOOR - Opens with key, closes with fob
BOOT - opens with Fob, Closes with Fob

PASSENGER DOORS x3-Cannot be unlocked, by fob or manually internally/externally. All have their internal lock levers (above each internal door handle) in the closed position.

PETROL CAP-Could not be opened by fob/manually, had to be forced open by Green Flag when first happened to allow my wife to continue driving the car until fixed.

KEY FOB works as follows:
Press OPEN - seems to disarm the alarm but no unlocking activity/sound
Press LOCK - works as normal, locking sound, lights flash, assume alarm armed.
Press BOOT OPEN - works fine

For the last week or so I have had to use the fob to turn off the alarm then open the drivers door manually with the key, then the kids climb through the boot or through the drivers side. :mad:
When I lock the car i just use the fob, works fine one press or two.

So far I have checked:
1) FOB - Despite the fob working I tried the 4 turn ignition/fob pairing procedure, no change - fob still works as above.
2) FUSES - checked the two fuses 133 & 134 (?) in fuse box under glove compartment, both fine and no obvious signs of water damage.

Stumped.

Next step?
I'm wondering if it's a switch problem local to the driver's door or perhaps wiring?
I'd like to check the integrity of the wiring loom from the driver's door to the main body of the car but I know from previous older cars this can be difficult and end up with breaking the fittings if I have to force them or use the wrong tool.
Can anyone help with a tricks/diagrams/advice how to do this without breaking any fittings? any special tools needed etc.?

Also...
Would anyone have any info on how to get into the driver's door or internal handle and/or the entire internal door trim off to have a look see without damaging the trim/handle? And what to look for inside the door/handle?
Any instructions (haynes?)/pictures/videos would be really appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
GF2k
 

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I would check the fuse box multi plugs for corrosion just disconnect them and look for any green rot!
I will take a look at the diagram today for you but I am pretty sure that the doors are independently operated from the gem/fusebox
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Crash,
Will have a look in the morning.

If you find anything from the circuit diagram please let me know anytime, I'll be checking the forum again later tonight.

Any thoughts as to it being a more local (door) issue?

GF2k
 

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We have had probs with our lock too.Fob stopped working & even a new battery or 3 didn`t make any difference.Car would only open with key.Then day after it`s mot,tried to open with key & .....nothing.Had to open tailgate & scramble through to put key in ignition & turn to switch off alarm.Took it to local garage again who said they`d have a look.When they took the door card off & touched the lock system it completely fell apart.They replaced the broken parts but were unable to help with fob problem (parts alone would have been upwards of £400).As a result we can only open the car via the key & remember to put the key in & turn ignition on to stop alarm going off.
Having had this problem (£350) & yet another egr before Xmas (£450) we are now looking to get part ex it for a Honda Civic 2.2EX,just a matter of time waiting for the right one to be available.

MM
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi everyone,
Going to open up the car door tomorrow if i can.
Would anyone have instructions as to how to get the driver's door trim off on a mark II cmax?
Also, how do i test the switches/wiring in the door?
I have a very basic circuit tester for testing batteries/mains live etc. but it only has pointed metal contacts not crocodile clips so depends where I have to place the two ends if I can reach/hold them there.

Cheers,
GF2k
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi all,

I've taken the driver's side door trim off but there's a metal plate in the way.
How do i remove that to get to the locking mechanism?
Are there any diagrams/pictures I can be sent from a repair manual etc.?

Also i've tried to check the wiring loom from the door to the main body but can't get the rubber cover off at the door end of the loom. It has a loop handle which I have pulled to the point of breaking but it's not coming off.
Would anyone have any suggestions/tricks? Do i have to unbolt the hinge to swing the door wider?

Any help appreciated urgently if possible as only a short window of time to get everything off and back in.

cheers,

GF2k
 

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I would leave it for now to be honest and get a Haynes manual either from the library or buy it so you know exactly how everything comes apart in case anything breaks and costs you even more money.

If you have a Ford dealership near you try to catch one of the technicians outside the garage and if they are as helpful as the ones near me they will point you in the right direction.

If you google "2008 focus central locking not working" there are a lot of posts about it with various fixes. Some have said the fuses appeared ok but once they changed them everything worked again. Others mention a Siemens control box which when disconnected for a short spell has also sorted the problem. Hopefully one of the fixes on the site will be relevant to your problem.



Cheers

Wes
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks o7Wes,
will put the door back together now and swap out the fuses.
if no change i'll look up the other posts you mentioned and try the dealer mechanic/haynes route too.

update soon.

cheers,
gf2k
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi everyone,
Still have the same problem and getting desperate for a solution.:(

I've looked up a variety of posts and managed to get the door opened up and window out to look at the drivers door lock mechanism.
although there's a little bit of dirt/dried dirty water at the bottom and dried water streaks in the door itself there doesn't appear to be any water damage to the lock itself or the plug.
All the electrical looms are tightly wound up with no sign of damage so given the age of the car I'm assuming wiring not the problem (at least not in the door).
So I'm stumped.

I've tried every everything I can think of to get the passenger door locking buttons to release; pushed/pulled each door a number of times, pulled the levers/buttons when locking/unlocking the alarm and/or pulling the external handles etc. everything i can think of so hoping someone has more ideas.

All the quotes I've had to take a look/get the diagnostics done are just not affordable, I can afford to spend £50-60 on either the fuse box or the door locking mechanism or some other piece of equipment, not everything so now I need to make as informed a choice as possible.

Do I get a new fuse box (even though I've swapped out some fuses and water marks seem to be from long ago)?
Or do I get a new drivers door lock when I don't even know if that's affecting the other looks (I unplugged it today and nothing happened with the other doors so have a feeling not the locking mechanism)

One idea I have been considering to answer the fuse box question was asking a neighbour with the same age cmax if I could swap out their fuse box into mine for 2mins to see if that sorts the problem. At the least it would establish if my fuse box is at fault but I'm worried it will muck theirs up too. Is this likely to be more a bad idea than good?

I'm at the stage now that I need to have a last ditch attempt before having to go the garage route so hoping someone out there with good electrical knowledge can give me a percentage likelihood of what it's most likely to be whether it's the fuse box, the drivers door lock, the passenger door locks somehow, the child locks(??) or ??:confused:

The door is opened up right now so if there is something else i can check please let me know urgently.

Thanks,

GF2k
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I would check the fuse box multi plugs for corrosion just disconnect them and look for any green rot!
I will take a look at the diagram today for you but I am pretty sure that the doors are independently operated from the gem/fusebox
Hi Crash,
I've sent you a PM re the circuit diagrams you were going to look at.

As I mentioned above I managed to get the drivers door opened up and unplugged the locking mechanism but it had no effect on the other doors at all, their still completely seized with the door lock buttons in the locked position.:mad:

I'm hoping that might help identify the electrical issue from a circuit diagram?

I can talk to you on my mobile if that helps at all.
At the moment the door is still opened up with bits over my drive so if there's anything I need to check before I put it back please let me know.
Thanks,
GF2k
 

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Ref the message you left
I've been following the conversation but have nothing directly to add ref Mk II
#
I do note that for the Mk I there are two separate fuses for the door motor unlocking one that does the drivers & the fuel flap and the other that does the other three doors. I don't however have any circuit diagrams for the Mk II to be able to help identify which they might be
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks Richard G,
Crash has been helping me on the electrical side but no final solution yet.

he suggested triggering the locks through the relevant multiplug: earthing the slots for pins 11 & 16 and running live current to the slot for pin 25. I did this but it just triggered the drivers door lock and I found that the fob could no longer lock the car. Now
Now down to using fob to work the alarm and the key blade to open/lock the drivers door & boot, all passenger doors still deadlocked. :mad:

Hoping Crash will have some more suggestions (or anyone else) perhaps as to which Pin might trigger the deadlock unlock action. he kindly published a circuit diagram in his album which I've tried to make sense of but not my area. pin 14 looks promising but have to admit I know nothing of electronics.
the only other diagrams I've found seem to be for a Mk 1 so no good.

car is currently on the drive with the passenger footwell a bit of a mess of wires so if anyone can help I'll try anything right now.

thanks,

gf2k
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi everyone,

thanks to Crash I got the doors undeadlocked weheyy!!.
there's still a problem with them re-locking if the lock switches/buttons are in when pressing lock on the fob but at least they're unlocked now.

Solution:
Crash suggested earthing the multiplug slots corresponding to Pins 11 & 16 and then sending a live current to the multiplug slot corresponding to Pin 18 by using one of the live slots on the green multiplug being fed current by one of the big red wires.

Step-by-step:
1) located the earths on the passenger door inner sill just behind the edge of the carpet.
2) cut and stripped both ends of 2 lengths of wire long enough to stretch from the earth to the fusebox/multiplugs
3) loosened the bolt attaching the earth to the sill, put the ends of these two wires under the bolt and retightened.
4) undid the large middle multiplug and large green multiplug (on the right) from the fusebox and twisted/turned them face up
5) pushed the other ends of one wire into the slot corresponding to pin 11 and the other in the slot for pin 16 (both on the large middle multiplug)
Image: http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/08/mu3yda9e.jpg
Image: http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/08/ze3y5equ.jpg
6) cut another wire long enough to stretch from the middle multiplug to the green multiplug and pushed one end into the slot corresponding to Pin 18
7) touched the other end of the third wire to the live slot on the upturned face of the green multiplug (big red wire goes into the back of this slot) - you will have to hold this multiplug in your right hand as it doesn't like being face up.
8) on touching this third wire to the live slot the passenger lock switches/buttons popped out and all the doors unlocked!!!

Test
9) Crash suggested testing slot 18 for current when the fob is used (with everything plugged in and none of the other wires connected) so I put everything back together, taking my three wires out and reattaching the multiplugs to the fuse box/gem module.
10) Then I used a Test Lamp Pen to do the test, attaching its crocodile clip to the earth and pushing its metal point/pen end down next to the wire going into the back of the slot corresponding to Pin 18 (back of the middle multiplug) then pressing the button on the fob.
Result: *The pen didn't light up so seems I need a new Gem/Fuse box.*

Just in case I need to do this again I have put the shorter third wire in my glove compartment and the two wires attached to the earth are tucked out of the way but still attached (no where near any live wires/connections).

However as long as the fob isn't used for anything other than turning the alarm off we can get into the car using the key blade (one turn left) and when we need to lock it we just have to press in the passenger lock buttons/switches, close all the doors and turn the key blade once to the right in the drivers door to lock everything (without seizing up the locks!).

I still need to get a new gem :( but at least we're able to use the car again without the acrobatics.

Hope that helps someone else...

Thanks again Crash!:D:D

Cheers
gf2k
 

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What a nightmare you have had! With regards to a new fuse box have you checked the tightness of the contacts and cleaned them before buying a new one?

Wes
 
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