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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As per title i have the battery warning light on. I have changed the alternator and still on. Have had the battery checked and all voltages are fine standing charge and running charge and charge from alternator. I don't have access to a oscilloscope, so have used a multimeter to do a resistance test on the smart charge cables coming from the alternator. The Grey wire when doing a resistance test shows a resistance but very briefly! All of 1 second this is while engine is running or off. Doing a volts test on this cable only shows 0.8v. Any ideas on solving this issue? Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So after a little more proding around on the car today, i have found that there is resistance on fuse 31 in the engine compartment. If i take the fuse out and try the poles only the one side gives resistance which is what i would expect and hope of. Was wondering if anyone know if the fuse 31 relates to the grey wire that i mentioned in the original post. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the wiring diagrams. After looking at the diagram i just went back out to do a resistance test again but this time each pole of f31 to each seperate location and have found that the resistance is on the battery side of the cable and not the wire that runs from the 3 pin plug. Would this mean that it could be any positive wire on the car or just the positive wire for that specific thing? I've done this test with the battery disconnected.
 

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Hi

Hi,
anything electrical should register a fault code.
Your best bet is to read any codes registered, it may even be possible that, having changed the alternator and all is working as it should, when codes are deleted the problem goes away.
Read codes, clear them, run engine and read again, see what you've got now.
Good luck
Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Done a scan on the car, multiple codes cleared them. Ran the car and battery light came straight back on. Scanned the car again and only one code showing P0622-78
 

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Google Ford P0622. Quite common and seems to indicate an issue with smart charge or wiring to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have done a google search for this code, however like you have said it indicates to a smart charge fault. But the wires for the smart charge all seem to be ok when doing a resistance test. The only one which is showing of a fault (resistance) is the battery side of the thin red wire that runs from the alternator to fuse 31 then to battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for that, i have already tested that method and with no smart charge connected the alternator charges at 13.8v then once connected charges between 14.2 - 15v.

Just been out and had another look. I disconnected the loom running from alternator/starter motor from the battery terminal loom and had no resistance. I then tested across fuses 31, 11 & 13 and had resistance. So i seperated the fuse box as much as i could with the wires a little freely i retested for resistance and there was none but as soon as the fuse box is pressed back together and refitted i had resistance. So it now looks like i'm up with the task of trying to locate the wire running from the fuse box to possibly within the inside of the car and engine bay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Looking at the fuse box diagram for engine bay, i can see that fuses 3 & 4 supply power to the internal fuse box (gem). Was wondering if anyone know which parts of the module each fuse supply to?
 

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alternator

Hi,
l'm sure if anything wrong with those fuses, you'd have a lot more wrong than this issue.
Going back to basics, you changed the alternator.
Was this an original ford replacement ?
Cheers
Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes an original Ford part with same part number. As i still need to drive the car i have had a fault flash up saying power steering malfunction and the esp light show on the dash with this
 

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cluster

Long shot but,
have you tried tapping the cluster
maybe it's the testing /disconnecting you've done, but beginning to sound like cluster connections from threads l've read in the past.
Also check the connectors for the bcm near the passenger fuse box.
Seems to be getting worse.
Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok so more of an update. I have tried the above to no avail. Then tonight driving home the instrument cluster start beepong and throwing up power steering malfunction along with the red snow flake and the temperature gauge showing dashes, the esp light and a few others but also it through the car in to darkness. I pulled over tried turning the lights off and on but only the side lights would work with the fog lights. I continued to drive with side lights and front foglightd on but then they started to flicker and again the car lost all lights with this the instrument cluster done the same as earlier and the heated front and rear screen buttons were lit but not able to turn them off.
 

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Check the connections at the passenger fuse box.
Make sure there in tight and properly connected.
The symptom's you described in the above post sound similar to what happened to me.
Now I had the same instrument cluster problem as you,engine malfunction,power steering fault.
I'm told it was the instrument cluster and to fix it just pull it out and resolder all the joints on the cluster.
I wasn't arsed doing that :p
What kind of fixed it was that I had one of those obd plugs constantly plugged in and when I plugged it out the problems stopped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Checked those connections today. Will pull the cluster out and have a look at it. I don't really fancy resoldering the joints inside. So if it is that then i will get another set of clocks and have them coded. Thanks for the advice and will let you know
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Due to being busy in work i haven't had time to look at the car more. I have been driving it witht the smart charge unplugged. Doing so i haven't had the power steering malfunction and further instrument cluster or light faults other than the obvious battery light permanently lit on the dash. I have done a voltage test across the battery terminal which showed 12.49v, and then 12.42v at the smart charge plug. The grey wire also showed 8.29v and the blue wire showed 0.17v this is with just ignition on with no engine running. Would the volts show correct on these or should the blue wire have more volts than 0.17v?
Thanks.
 
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