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Discussion Starter #21
Hi Trevor, my car is automatic and Euro only offer the 'Q-drive' shafts. Also, when at the Ford dealer, the mechanic mentioned that as mine is automatic, it doesn't lose any fluid when you remove the driveshafts (but I will be prepared anyway). I have a pit in my garage (previous house owner was a mechanic) and a hoist on an I-beam, so I plan to roll it in later and have a quick look, in case it's obvious like in the video I suggested.
 

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Hi Paul,

I don't think that they are different and looking at there spec's they all have 26 teeth gearbox end and wheel side 36 teeth I see one say's manual but none say Auto?
Did you put your registration in the Euro on line part look up box to see what choices it gives?

Just looked at the video's that drive shaft vibrating one can't be real as the oil would have leaked out and there is no sign of any oil.
And the other video I find it easier to just remove the bottom ball joint it's an odd size nut though 21ml.
And surprised some one is still using air tools mine's all battery except the air chisel as there is not a battery version as yet and I prefer the thick copper grease rather than the spray one.

Good luck

Trevor.
 

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HI Paul, I just went back to Euro parts and selected C Max Auto and it still lists both the cheap and the dear shafts as choices put your reg in the on line part look up on Euro parts and I'm sure it will list cheap and dear choices.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
HI Paul, I just went back to Euro parts and selected C Max Auto and it still lists both the cheap and the dear shafts as choices put your reg in the on line part look up on Euro parts and I'm sure it will list cheap and dear choices.
Trevor,
I have also been doing this for years (over 40), and have done due dligence on the ones be delivered on Monday. I am also reliably informed that the automatic transmission doesn't lose fluid from there.
If your shop is rigged up for air tools (which in my opinion are better) why change? I have air tools and don't plan on throwing them away to spend more money.
 

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HI Paul,
I stopped using Air tools maybe 5 years ago it's the noise of the compressor and the air tools operating the electricity it uses keeping the 500lt air tank topped up with air, also the size of the air tools compared to battery equivalent, and the trailing air hose of course.
I use Milwaukee fuel all with spare batteries so there is one always on charge and never had a problem or needed to use my old air tools (I still have them) also if you have a brake down job away from home their a god send, if I go on a long journey or holiday my milwaukee's are always in the boot ready for action.
Next time you have a big car project hire a set of battery tools and I'm sure you will see what I mean and probably never go back to air tools.
As for the leaking oil drive shaft I wonder why they put expensive oil seals in their for then that's really odd?
Any way Paul good luck with your drive shafts on Monday I really hope it cures your problems.

Trevor.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I see lots of advantages in the cordless stuff, if you haven't already invested heavily in air tools. I only work on my own vehicles (and most of that was restoring bikes - can you get a cordless sand blaster?) so not a heavy user. I bought all mine 20 years ago, and most are still shiny.
I presume the fancy seal is a bi-product of them using the same driveshafts for all the petrol variants (I still haven't figured out how they use the same shafts for manual or automatic - but a couple of suppliers say this is the case). It certainly makes sense to reduce the parts list, with all the variants they sell.
I still really don't think this is a driveshaft problem; it just doesn't feel like it. It didn't change with loading, one side or the other, and is silky smooth on the overrun. I think this is £150 down the you know where, but it ticks another box, before I go headlong into the transmission.
The places on the net that advertise reconditioned boxes all come back and say these are rare and they will only take mine in and refurbish it on an hourly rate + parts, so no bargains there (£1500+)
But the driveshafts may fix it...
 

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Hi Paul, I've found you a 20 56 reg C max Auto breaking E bay number 16260323770 you might get the Auto box super cheap maybe.

Trevor.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Just to close this thread off, I have to admit I was wrong about this one. The right hand driveshaft also has a rather large bearing which seems to be bolted to a subframe member, before the 2 CV joints. This bearing was the cause of the shuddering. A new driveshaft sorted it out completely. It drives like a new car now!
Hope this helps someone else in a similar situation.
 

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Just to close this thread off, I have to admit I was wrong about this one. The right hand driveshaft also has a rather large bearing which seems to be bolted to a subframe member, before the 2 CV joints. This bearing was the cause of the shuddering. A new driveshaft sorted it out completely. It drives like a new car now!
Hope this helps someone else in a similar situation.
Many thanks for adding the close-off information, that's super helpful :)

I have a split gaiter on the O/S driveshaft of my Mk1 2007 2.0 Auto. I also have judder when rapidly pulling away.

I have spent hours scouring the net trying to find a driveshaft that's specifically for Auto but none listed, then I found this thread, which confirmed my suspicion that manual and auto use the same drive shaft. Cheers for including that golden nugget of information(y)

Now all I need is this rain to go away to get it changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Glad to have helped! These forums are so useful but many people forget to close off the thread with the final fix.
 
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